Have you ever tried this kind of binding? It's very effective. You need 1 1/2" wide strips of the main colour, grey on mine, and 1 3/4" strips of the fabric you want to use for the piping, obviously the pink fabric on mine.
After making both strips long enough to go the whole distance around the quilt (and the joins do need to be sewn diagonally, like you do with normal binding) you sew the two strips together, lengthwise.
Then press the seam allowance towards the accent colour.
Next, and this is a very important bit, carefully fold the binding over ensuring you fold the seam allowance in half, that's what gives the plumpity appearance to the the binding (I wrote plumpity, maybe it should be plump-ity-ness ?)
I've looked online and found that there are loads of video tutorials to make Faux Piped Binding. None of them do this tacking bit and you will see (if you do go to watch any) that lots look more like binding with a flat flange.
Next, and this is a very important bit, carefully fold the binding over ensuring you fold the seam allowance in half, that's what gives the plumpity appearance to the the binding (I wrote plumpity, maybe it should be plump-ity-ness ?)
I've looked online and found that there are loads of video tutorials to make Faux Piped Binding. None of them do this tacking bit and you will see (if you do go to watch any) that lots look more like binding with a flat flange.
I like to tack the whole way along the binding to stop it, the faux bit, from going flat, the seam allowance will want to stay flat so you have to show it who is the boss!
You can see I used a bright turquoise thread to tack mine, which also helps when it comes to unpicking those large stitches after it's all stitched down.
You will need to sew the binding to the back of the quilt rather that to the front, as we usually do. Check first that you won't have any joins landing on the corners, if you do have joins hitting corners, that's a nightmare you won't like!
Once the binding is stitched in place and the ends carefully joined together, press the binding from the back side to make a good crisp seam, this will help a lot when you pull it over to the front.
Once the binding is stitched in place and the ends carefully joined together, press the binding from the back side to make a good crisp seam, this will help a lot when you pull it over to the front.
You really need to use your Walking Foot with all the layers.
Having just told you that, it is very tricky to sew your binding right in the ditch of the piping with a walking foot, only because of the width of the foot's plate. See how you go.
If it's too tricky, try your zipper foot as you need to get up close to the piping really.
If it's too tricky, try your zipper foot as you need to get up close to the piping really.
This zipper foot, in my photo, is a Walking Foot!!! I kid you not... the Juki UX8 has a built in Walking foot that can be used with lots of different feet, even the Quarter inch one. (I know it's extravagant and pretty pricey) but it makes the BEST faux Piping with the most accurate and wonderful finish.
I'm not brilliant at describing stuff like this but, if you want to pop in to my shop, I can go through it again and give you a little sample to guide you. I keep all the left over bits exactly for that purpose. Alternatively come for a little lesson?
If there's a small group interested, we could make a sample together, like a workshop. I'm sure I could cope with that, ha!
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